Trapped in St. Marys, GA

St. Marys Yacht Club

http://www.stmyc.org/

After a pancake breakfast at the St. Marys Yacht Club, we attempted to pull anchor and discovered we had snagged a crab trap.  The previous day in high winds and strong current I was very proud of my 65 lb. CQR anchor.  Other boats were dragging around the anchorage, getting close to us, apologizing, and then pulling anchor and moving.  We were rock solid, however the extra line on the crab trap explains our extra swing.  After a short fight, we were able to extract ourselves from the crab trap and proceed on to a nice evening at Fernandina Beach.  We then took a long look at the chart and tide information and ,made a run for Jacksonville.  The St. Johns River has a reputation for 3 knot currents, so we wanted to time it right.  At one point I saw 9.6 knots on the GPS - trawler speed!

We stopped short of our destination and put in at the Jacksonville Metropolitan Park Marina.  It is out in an industrial area near the stadium, so rather boring.  The good part however it was FREE and we had nice neighbors:

One of the reasons we stopped short is that the Coast Guard was broadcasting that the Main Street Bridge was stuck in the down position (40').  The next morning it was reported repaired, but as we approached, the bridge tender advised they were still experiencing difficulties and asked us how much we needed.  I advised 45' would work, but 50' makes us feel much better.  He said come on, we should have that much.

Next we had to negotiate some very skinny water, and one more bridge:

Smallest horizontal opening we have negotiated!

We have taken a slip at Ortega Yacht Club Marina for a week.  Today I installed the repaired AIS unit and did some other maintenance (batteries, engine zinc, checks, etc.).  Tomorrow we fly out to Birmingham, AL to visit the older son and grandson.  We should be back on the waterways by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week after repairing the wind generator.  Next stop, St. Augustine, FL.



St. Marys River, halfway between Georgia and Florida

Line for the Boaters Thanksgiving Dinner in St Marys, GA

Not to worry, everyone got enough turkey, ham, all the fixings and pumpkin pie they could eat.  Talking to the other boaters in line was part of the fun.  Great job done by the boating community in St. Marys.

Pollie found an old paper mill railroad loading building that fascinated her.  Evidently it took her back to her days working for the railroad as a switchman/brakeman.  The paper mill is gone, and they tried to make a go of the loading building being a railroad museum, but now it is abandoned.

The Orange Mansion

We tried to tour The Orange Mansion, built in 1830, but missed the closing time.  On the way there, Pollie found a balloon from a wedding with a note attached.  She has already responded.

Many of the people we have met in St. Marys tell us they came for a visit, and just never left.  Or, they came through here on a boat several times, and eventually swallowed the anchor and now live here full time.  Tomorrow, after the blue berry pancake feed on the house boat that serves as the St Marys Yacht Club, we are leaving.

More on ICW Navigation

Skidaway Bridge (ICW Mile 592.6)

One of the ICW's hassles is opening bridges, not only for the boaters, but also for the road traffic trying to use the bridge.  Many are restricted from opening during peak traffic hours, others only open on the hour or half hour, and a few open on request.  As we approached the Skidaway Bridge we were advised that we would have to wait due to ongoing repairs.  This isn't so bad when the current is against you, but can be somewhat laborious when the current is pushing you towards the bridge.  After about a 15 -20 minute wait the bridge tender let us go through, however the northern starboard side would not open (see in background).  Note the angst on my face.  Can't believe he let us do it, and can't believe I accepted.

If you are going to run aground, do it when the tide is rising, otherwise you will risk heeling over too far as the water recedes.  Entering St. Marys anchorage we found the sand bar that runs through the middle of the anchorage.  Luckily, it was at low tide so all we had to do was wait about an hour for the tide to come in and float us off.  The only damage was to our pride because at happy hour that night the other boaters greeted us with, "oh, Serenity,you were the boat sitting on the sand bar."

Hell Gate

Can't over emphasize the effect the tide has on currents.  Don't know if these kayakers are sitting there because they are worn out from fighting the currents in Hell Gate, or if they come out there for entertainment watching the "yachties" navigate this stretch of water.

To simplify the engineering, our wind generator was installed with its tail tied so that it only operates in a 270 degree arc forward.  The thinking was that when anchored, and most needing the wind power, we would be pointed into the wind.  Wrong; the currents here are so strong that they can over power a 20 knot wind.  Today, we put so much stress on the wind generator that one of the blades flexed enough to hit the mount breaking it off.  Not to worry, we have already contacted the supplier and will have new blades in Jacksonville.  My point of contact advised me, "you might want to tie off that tail a wee bit shorter."

Happy Thanksgiving

Anchored in St. Marys, GA with about 100 other boats.

The town of St. Marys and the local boaters put on their annual Thanksgiving week for the cruisers headed south for the winter.  Each day begins with a conference at 9:00 AM on VHF channel 69.  Today's schedule includes dinner at 1:00 PM followed by an informal gathering at Seagales Bar which is run by the former porn star Cindy Deen. Eclectic gathering to say the least.

Happy Thanksgiving 

Navigating the ICW in Georgia

Stay in the center of the channel!

The ICW through Georgia presents new challenges.  First of all, the tidal fluctuation is about 8 feet.  This creates some interesting currents flowing around all of the small islands.  They also have cuts that connect rivers to form the ICW route.  These cuts are notorious for strong confused currents and shoaling.  Just prior to entering the Savannah River we touched bottom coming out of one of these cuts.

Today we did Hell Gate, a one mile cut that connects the Green Island Sound with the Ogeehee River.  It is noted for shoaling and strong currents.  Pollie said that they would not have named it Hell Gate if there wasn't a reason.  I said that "Walk in the Park" was taken.  We had no problems.

Savannah

Savannah is a busy port.  Large cargo ships pass by us day and night.  We even got to see two pass each other on the Savannah River right outside our window.  The most disruptive boat, however is the little  green and white ferry (on the right).  It comes and goes about every ten minutes carry passengers across the river.

We have really enjoyed biking and walking around historic Savannah.

Great old cemetery.



Hilton Head Island - Almost

We had a great stay in Charleston, spending most of the time biking around looking at the magnificent homes.  On the second Sunday of each month King Street is turned into a pedestrian only street.  Most of the merchants were open and the restaurants had tables on the sidewalks.  The Jazzercise class was held on the street.

Monday was a late start due to a work related telecon in the morning, so we only made it to South Edisto River (32 37.172N/80 23.779W) where we anchored for the night.  We had planned to make it to a Marina on Hilton Head Island on Tuesday, but it didn't happen.  With three guide books and a sign saying the the Ladies Island Bridge open on the hour and half hour, it only opens on the hour according to the less than communicative bridge tender - 45 minute wait.  Then the wind associated with an approaching frontal passage gave us 20 - 25 knots on the nose and large waves as we crossed Port Royal Sound.  So, we decided to anchored in Skull Creek (32 15.174N/080 44.679W) next to Hilton Head Island.  We will see Hilton Head on the next time through, tomorrow Savannah, GA.

 

New Link

Look to the left.  Right below the "Finding Serenity" button is a new link.  Because we found the http://www.marinetraffic.com/ unreliable, we have added a new link that tracks my cell phone.  We haven't given up entirely on the AIS even though our unit is in for repairs, but look at this as an augmentation.

Thanks Haeden!



American Star

As mentioned in the previous post, restrictions on a bridge opening would have forced us to enter a strange harbor after dark; not wise.  So, we anchored for the nigh 14 miles short of Charleston.  The next morning we found American Star anchored at the mouth of the creek we had tucked into.  No problem, we were able to sneak around her bow and proceed down the ICW.  Soon, however we noticed American Star coming up on our stern, but not fast enough.  The bridge tender decided to delay our opening to wait for her.

Once through the bridge, I noticed she was gaining on us in the narrow channel so I contacted the Captain and ascertained she was doing 7.9 knots while we were doing 7.  We slowed and moved to the far side of the channel and waited for her to pass.

The last part of the ICW before it enters Charleston Harbor has some sharp turns that American Star had to slow down for, forcing us to slow.  But, once in the harbor she turned one way and we headed straight for The Haborage at Ashley Marina where we had reserved a slip.  We had tried to get in the City Marina, but all the space was taken.  As we entered the Ashley River and the narrow reach to the marinas, American Star was on our stern again.  Evidently the Captain had given the passengers a short tour of Charleston Harbor before heading to her reserved space at the City Marina.

At that point I declared it would cost each passenger a beer for me to accommodate them again.  Actually, the Captain was very professional and a gentleman.  There are probably a couple hundred more pictures of Serenity out there somewhere.



Didn't Make Chuck Town

We had planned to be in Charleston, SC harbor tonight, but it didn't happen.  Due to a low tide in a tight anchorage in Georgetown, SC, we decided to delay our departure this morning.  Instead we had breakfast and a latte in a great little breakfast place.  Before Charleston harbor is the Ben Sawyer Highway Bridge, vertical clearance 31 feet (Serenity's mast is 42 feet above the waterline), and openings are restricted between 4 and 6 PM.  Our arrival time would have been 4:45 PM, with sunset at 5:30.  The math didn't work, so we are anchored behind Big Hill Marsh Island, or at 32 50.222 N/079 43.844W.  Rather uneventful day on the ICW, but some of the wildlife was interesting.  Besides the birds, we were entertained by several dolphin sightings.

Georgetown, SC

Paper Mill in Background

Our guide book describes Georgetown as, ...small-town, quiet facade, coupled with surrounding natural beauty, belies the historic and economic significance of the area."  The Waccamaw River leading to Georgetown is described as the most beautiful section of the ICW.  "It is an area of swamps, marshes, endless deep creeks and dense forests."  Both descriptions are correct.  We were quite taken by Georgetown.  The main street commercial area is stately, while the back side wharf area is nicely shabby chic. 

While enjoying the ride down the Waccamaw River we met these tug delivering dredging pipe to Morehead City.

On the VHF radio, they were not shy about stating their intention of taking their half of the waterway out of the middle.

There are little hints that are we getting into the South.  We are the ones with the accents, and the term redneck is no longer derogatory.

This guy is using power tools!

I have been getting several inquiries about Serenity's performance. Mechanically, she is doing great.  Previously we averaged 1.7 gallons per hour fuel burn.  On the first fill up in Beaufort, NC we averaged 1.2 gallons per hour.  I think the prop tune and and the slick bottom receive the credit.  We did have the sails up in the Chesapeake and Albemarle Sound, but down the "ditch" it has been motoring.  Considering that we added numerous new systems, the teething has not been too bad.  The unit that should convert analog engine information to NEMA 2000 has been disconnected because it was interfering with the analog gauges (working with the manufacturer).  As previously mentioned our much beloved WiFi enhancer went south and was replaced with a new one.  Just received news that the old one has been repaired and shipped (will become a backup).  The AIS unit was just given last rites and I will be contacting the manufacturer tomorrow for warranty.  The new electric toilet and other systems are performing flawlessly, especially the new Raymarine navigational systems.



South Carolina

Serenity might be further south than she has ever been.  I think the previous owners kept her up in Maine.  After Bald Head Island, we back tracked up the the Cape Fear River and rejoined the ICW.  The biggest angst of the day was timing an old pontoon bridge that only opened on the hour.  The bridge is scheduled to be replaced by a 65' foot fixed bridge in December 2010.

Soon to retire (new bridge in background)

We ended up at Barefoot Landing Marina.  Previously this was a free dock associated with the 30 some nearby Myrtle Beach restaurant and shopping center.  Evidently, too popular as now they charge.  Again we had a good bike ride and even found a new activity - beach riding.

Bald Head Island

The short run down the Cape Fear River was aided by a strong current so we were able to ride around almost the entire island on our bikes after we arrived.

Pollie & Old Baldy Lighthouse (1817)

"The exceptional nature of Bald Head Island, NC," is very interesting.  Seems that in the 60's there was a big fight between environmentalist and developers over Bald Head Island.  The resulting compromise is quite nice, and apparently economically feasible.  While there does not seem to be any service industry housing, the rest is quite nice and blends nicely with the environment.  They have regulations such as requiring baffling around porch lights so as not to confuse the baby sea turtles.  They are very proud of the fact that the lack of light pollution makes stargazing possible, but we also found that riding our bikes to the restaurant at night to be rather challenging.  There are three environments: the creek side, forest, and beach.

"That way to the Bahamas"

The marina was one of the nicest we have stayed in, and the nearby restaurant, Eb & Flo's, had great shrimp and grits.



 

Tidal Action

While in Wilmington, Serenity has been enjoying a floating dock without any nearby company, but the Hilton.  Always better to be the view than to have the view.

We have observed about a five foot range between between low and high tide.  Notice the ramp in relation to the floating dock and the fixed dock in the first picture with Pollie versus the second picture Pollie and nephew Bill.

We have decided that the prudent course of action for our departure on Monday is to wait for the ebb, so we will not be taking off until after noon.  Because we will not be able to make it too far before sunset, we are going to stop at Bald Island, about a 24 mile run.

Playing Battleship!

Hi folks this is Pollie getting brave and doing a post this time.
Today we did the tourist thing after two days of rain and caught the Battleship North Carolina in all her sunlit glory. Huge ship, we got lost down below...The views of Cape Fear River historic waterfront were impressive from the uppermost decks. We could even see our boat across the river!

I think we had too much fun :)) Loved these photos so had to buy them all... I'm such an easy target.

Wilmington, NC

We did a long day from Swan Point, NC, down the ICW past Carolina Beach, through Snow's Cut, up the Cape Fear River to Wilmington City Docks (34 14.306N/077 57.090W).  It was a day of fast and slow.  Once we had to put the peddle to the metal to make a bridge opening, then we had to slow down to time the next bridge.  The current from the inlets to the Atlantic Ocean played with us also.  At times over a knot of speed was shaved off by current, ant other times we were flying:

9.4 Knots was our best!

Under the Carolina Beach Bridge over Snow's Cut, we decided to give this guy the right of way, like the boats ahead of did.

Before getting to the Historic District of Wilmington, you past the industrial side of town, but then you get some better views.

We plan on staying here until Monday visiting with my sister and brother-in-law (Judy & Charlie).  We already have the new WiFi enhancer installed, and Judy's wash & fold has us in clean clothes.

Beaufort to Swan Point

We ran the gauntlet between small fishing boats, a couple of large fishing boats, other southbound sailors, and Camp Lejeune firing-range:

We did find our dream home among the mega-mansions that lined the waterway:



Once past the Onslow Beach Highway Bridge at Mile Marker 240:

We had planned to anchor in Mile Hammock Bay, however when we got there the Inn was full - very crowded anchorge.  So, we proceeded on to Swan Point Marina and a high wind landing.  Swan Point Marina is a little long in the tooth, but has a friendly staff. 

Our social butterfly kicked in and we met a very charming French Canadian couple on a Nova Scotia lobster boat inspired trawler that the wife had done a great job designing a elegant industrial interior.  Next we went for drinks on the last Manta 42' catamaran produced.  Some may recall we seriously considered buying a Manta as our retirement sailing platform.  Unfortunately, due to the wife's change of heart, this Manta is for sale.  Pollie is thinking that this is too wierd we ran into this boat, Hmmm...

Tomorrow, Wilmington.