Merry Christmas

Some of the folks get a little carried away, otherwise you would not know it was Christmas in 70 degree weather.

After opening 19 bridges in two days from West Palm Beach to Ft. Lauderdale, we arrived.  We spent a very pleasant night on anchor in Boca Raton, before Ft Lauderdale.  We then proceeded up the New River where we tied off to spend Christmas.  Great selection of restaurants and sights for the holidays.

Notice the Tow Boat Ahead of this Behemoth 

New rule; if you are too big to navigate the river on your own and require two tugs (one in the front and one in the back), your boat is too big!  Evidently, the New River is one of the places you go to see and be seen.  The parade of boats on "the cruise" is quite entertaining.

Dog Park

 Our slip is surrounded by numerous high-rise apartment building.  The green space near our boat is the favorite dog walking area.  With about 3 foot of tidal action, we sometimes look out of the boat and are on eye level with a dachshund doing their business.  We have met some great dogs and owners.  

West Palm Beach

 After opening 6 bridges, we arrived in West Palm Beach.  The last bridge we opened, The Flagler Memorial Bridge, opened 15 minutes after the hour and 15 minutes before the hour.  We arrived at 2:50 p.m., but the bridge tender was nice enough to hold the opening for us, backing up a lot of vehicle traffic.  The next day on the way to the grocery store, we got caught waiting for a boat to pass through.

Pay backs are hell.

The marina we are staying in is very nice and pricey.  But, it is all inclusive (laundry, pump out, golf cart ride to boat, etc.) so we are making the most of it.

Nearby the marina is the Waterfront Commons they have Sunday on the Waterfront.  This Sunday was Still Surfin' (a Tribute to the Beach Boys).  In attendance was the Mayor of West Palm Beach, handing out free brownies.

Pollie dancing with the Honorable Mayor Lois J. Frankel

Second Month Anniversary and S#%t Storm

While anchored in Manatee Pocket we celebrated our two month anniversary as full time cruisers.

Dredging Operation in Manatee Pocket

Manatee Pocket is a small cove off of the ICW near Stuart, FL.  Unfortunately, that evening we experienced a clogged toilet line that required pin pointing, then clean out - not pleasant.  All is well now and we are being more liberal with water when flushing.

 

Moving South

Our plan is to move south while we are enjoying somewhat improved temperatures (still cold at night).  Some of our cruising friends don't seem to mind the temperatures.

Dolphins Playing in Our Wake

(Pollie worked hard to get a picture of the dolphins)

This morning after leaving Titusville, we had to open two bridges, the Titusville Bridge and the NASA Causeway Bridge.  The first was not a problem other than a 42' catamaran that pulled in front of us because he had to be first.  The second bridge was more challenging.  It had a barge with a dredger working under the bridge.  The bridge tender advertised that there was 20' between the barge and the fender of the bridge.  This eliminated the catamaran, as his beam was 22'.  This put Serenity in the lead.  As we went through, I saw about 3' on either side of our 10.4' beam.  After we got through, I advised the bridge tender, "Serenity is clear, thank you for the opening, now I will now go take my blood pressure medicine."  The boat behind us ask if they could have some too!

Frontal Passage

We decided to wait another day in Daytona Beach to let a cold front roll through that was predicted to produce "rough" conditions on intracoastal waters.  The next day was forecasted to be "choppy."  Choppy we can handle.  While in Daytona we decided on activities that would be best considering the wind chill.  So, we rented a car to make a Wally-World run to reprovision and do some sightseeing.

The Cube on the Beach

In addition to visiting museums, we found other warm inside activities.

Of course we only visit the classy joints.

 

"The gift that keeps on giving"

While in St Augustine, we visited the Dow Museum of Historic Homes.  Seems Kenneth Dow, and his wife Mary spent their life and inherited fortune traveling and acquiring artifacts.  In St. Augustine he bought several house and had others moved in to create a little compound to store his finds.  After touring the homes, Pollie asked the curator, "where is the really good stuff."  We were directed to The Museum of Arts and Science in Daytona Beach.

We were not disappointed, Mr. and Mrs. Dow had put together an incredible large and diverse collection.

Additionally, the museum housed a collection from the Root family that made their fortune from inventing and producing the Coke bottle.

We also enjoyed a Cuban exhibit.

One of the homes in St Augustine had been inhabited by a nephew of Napoleon.  This inspired Mr. Dow to go to France and buy all the Napoleonic artifacts he could lay his hands on.  Many of the documents and artifacts from his collection are still in boxes waiting to be opened and cataloged, thus the statement from the curator, "we call the Dow bequeath the gift the keeps on giving."



 

St. Augustine

Greetings from St. Augustine, FL

Due to the "Arctic  Blast" we decided to take a slip rather than a mooring ball.  Good choice, as the dinghy ride to shore would have been on the nippy side, and the winds last night and today has created a pretty good chop at the docks, probably very uncomfortable in the mooring field.  Today we are enjoying cool temperatures, wind and light rain. We have been justifying using marinas more than we had planned on with the fact that if we spent every night in a marina at $2.00 per foot, it is less money than our mortgage in DC.  Slip fees have probably averaged about $1.75 peer foot with the highest in Savannah, $3.00 per foot and the lowest in Jacksonville, $.90 per foot.  The length of our boat has been variable also.  On the stern we are identified as a Nauticat 33.  The 33' is referring to the length on deck, while the overall length is 36.5 with the bowsprit, and the dinghy hanging on the davits adds another 4'.  Some marinas want to include the dinghy davits, while others don't.  At only one marina did the harbor master step off the length of our boat, so we have settled on a compromise, and now refer to our boat as a 38 footer.

Bridge of Lions

The St Augustine City Marina we had to open the Bridge of Lions, a double bascule.  It opens on the hour and half hour between 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., except on at 8 a.m. noon, and 5 p.m.  I can understand the restriction at 8 and 5, but the one at noon seems a little strange.  We were able to time our arrival so as to have only about a 10 minute wait.

Former Hotel Ponce de Leon

Built in 1888 as Henry Flagler's flagship hotel, the Ponce de Leon is now Flagler College, a four year liberal arts college.  We also toured the Memorial Presbyterian Church that Flagler built in memory of his daughter, that includes the family mausoleum.  Both structures are made of poured in place concrete and exemplifies architecture when money and craftsmanship are not a restraint.

Much of the town was toured on our bikes that did not seem to bother these guys.

   

Escaped Jacksonville - Almost

Jacksonville Skyline

After a week and a day, we departed Jacksonville and went down the St. Johns River to the point it intercepted the ICW.  We delayed our departure until 10:30 AM to take advantage of the current and to depart on high tide (gets a little skinny in the Ortega River).  Worked well, except when we rejoined the ICW we were going against a 1.5 knot current until we got to the Atlantic Highway Bridge.  Serenity's chart plotter program includes a tides and charts program.  We can superimpose the currents on the chart.  It gives us red arrows with the size of the arrow indicating the strength of the current.  When we got to the Atlantic Highway Bridge, there was the biggest arrow we have ever seen - 5.6 knots!  Evidently, the construction of the bridge funnels the water under the bridge creating quite a strong and swirly current under the bridge.  After a white-knuckle ride under the bridge and fighting the current, we stopped in Jacksonville Beach at the Beach Marina.  Initially we had planned to anchor out, but decided that with the record low temperatures for Northern Florida, we would like to run a space heater tonight.

Neighbor installing WiFi antenna on a Manta 42

During our week in Jacksonville, we were able to get some maintenance done and fly out to Alabama to visit the oldest son.  Unfortunately the Rosa Parks Museum was closed for filming, but we did get to see the State Capitol, and the Southern White House for the Confederate States of America.  Jefferson Davis spent the spring of 1861 there, then decided it was going to get hot, so he moved to Richmond, VA.  Also, Pollie got to see her first Pro Bass Shop.  She was impressed, even bought camoflauge wrapping paper.
We actually missed the boat while in Alabama.  Serenity is definatelly looking "lived in," and Pollie only ocasionally grumbles about our "glorified camping."

Pollie's Corner

Mo's Corner

Trapped in St. Marys, GA

St. Marys Yacht Club

http://www.stmyc.org/

After a pancake breakfast at the St. Marys Yacht Club, we attempted to pull anchor and discovered we had snagged a crab trap.  The previous day in high winds and strong current I was very proud of my 65 lb. CQR anchor.  Other boats were dragging around the anchorage, getting close to us, apologizing, and then pulling anchor and moving.  We were rock solid, however the extra line on the crab trap explains our extra swing.  After a short fight, we were able to extract ourselves from the crab trap and proceed on to a nice evening at Fernandina Beach.  We then took a long look at the chart and tide information and ,made a run for Jacksonville.  The St. Johns River has a reputation for 3 knot currents, so we wanted to time it right.  At one point I saw 9.6 knots on the GPS - trawler speed!

We stopped short of our destination and put in at the Jacksonville Metropolitan Park Marina.  It is out in an industrial area near the stadium, so rather boring.  The good part however it was FREE and we had nice neighbors:

One of the reasons we stopped short is that the Coast Guard was broadcasting that the Main Street Bridge was stuck in the down position (40').  The next morning it was reported repaired, but as we approached, the bridge tender advised they were still experiencing difficulties and asked us how much we needed.  I advised 45' would work, but 50' makes us feel much better.  He said come on, we should have that much.

Next we had to negotiate some very skinny water, and one more bridge:

Smallest horizontal opening we have negotiated!

We have taken a slip at Ortega Yacht Club Marina for a week.  Today I installed the repaired AIS unit and did some other maintenance (batteries, engine zinc, checks, etc.).  Tomorrow we fly out to Birmingham, AL to visit the older son and grandson.  We should be back on the waterways by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week after repairing the wind generator.  Next stop, St. Augustine, FL.



St. Marys River, halfway between Georgia and Florida

Line for the Boaters Thanksgiving Dinner in St Marys, GA

Not to worry, everyone got enough turkey, ham, all the fixings and pumpkin pie they could eat.  Talking to the other boaters in line was part of the fun.  Great job done by the boating community in St. Marys.

Pollie found an old paper mill railroad loading building that fascinated her.  Evidently it took her back to her days working for the railroad as a switchman/brakeman.  The paper mill is gone, and they tried to make a go of the loading building being a railroad museum, but now it is abandoned.

The Orange Mansion

We tried to tour The Orange Mansion, built in 1830, but missed the closing time.  On the way there, Pollie found a balloon from a wedding with a note attached.  She has already responded.

Many of the people we have met in St. Marys tell us they came for a visit, and just never left.  Or, they came through here on a boat several times, and eventually swallowed the anchor and now live here full time.  Tomorrow, after the blue berry pancake feed on the house boat that serves as the St Marys Yacht Club, we are leaving.

More on ICW Navigation

Skidaway Bridge (ICW Mile 592.6)

One of the ICW's hassles is opening bridges, not only for the boaters, but also for the road traffic trying to use the bridge.  Many are restricted from opening during peak traffic hours, others only open on the hour or half hour, and a few open on request.  As we approached the Skidaway Bridge we were advised that we would have to wait due to ongoing repairs.  This isn't so bad when the current is against you, but can be somewhat laborious when the current is pushing you towards the bridge.  After about a 15 -20 minute wait the bridge tender let us go through, however the northern starboard side would not open (see in background).  Note the angst on my face.  Can't believe he let us do it, and can't believe I accepted.

If you are going to run aground, do it when the tide is rising, otherwise you will risk heeling over too far as the water recedes.  Entering St. Marys anchorage we found the sand bar that runs through the middle of the anchorage.  Luckily, it was at low tide so all we had to do was wait about an hour for the tide to come in and float us off.  The only damage was to our pride because at happy hour that night the other boaters greeted us with, "oh, Serenity,you were the boat sitting on the sand bar."

Hell Gate

Can't over emphasize the effect the tide has on currents.  Don't know if these kayakers are sitting there because they are worn out from fighting the currents in Hell Gate, or if they come out there for entertainment watching the "yachties" navigate this stretch of water.

To simplify the engineering, our wind generator was installed with its tail tied so that it only operates in a 270 degree arc forward.  The thinking was that when anchored, and most needing the wind power, we would be pointed into the wind.  Wrong; the currents here are so strong that they can over power a 20 knot wind.  Today, we put so much stress on the wind generator that one of the blades flexed enough to hit the mount breaking it off.  Not to worry, we have already contacted the supplier and will have new blades in Jacksonville.  My point of contact advised me, "you might want to tie off that tail a wee bit shorter."

Happy Thanksgiving

Anchored in St. Marys, GA with about 100 other boats.

The town of St. Marys and the local boaters put on their annual Thanksgiving week for the cruisers headed south for the winter.  Each day begins with a conference at 9:00 AM on VHF channel 69.  Today's schedule includes dinner at 1:00 PM followed by an informal gathering at Seagales Bar which is run by the former porn star Cindy Deen. Eclectic gathering to say the least.

Happy Thanksgiving 

Navigating the ICW in Georgia

Stay in the center of the channel!

The ICW through Georgia presents new challenges.  First of all, the tidal fluctuation is about 8 feet.  This creates some interesting currents flowing around all of the small islands.  They also have cuts that connect rivers to form the ICW route.  These cuts are notorious for strong confused currents and shoaling.  Just prior to entering the Savannah River we touched bottom coming out of one of these cuts.

Today we did Hell Gate, a one mile cut that connects the Green Island Sound with the Ogeehee River.  It is noted for shoaling and strong currents.  Pollie said that they would not have named it Hell Gate if there wasn't a reason.  I said that "Walk in the Park" was taken.  We had no problems.

Savannah

Savannah is a busy port.  Large cargo ships pass by us day and night.  We even got to see two pass each other on the Savannah River right outside our window.  The most disruptive boat, however is the little  green and white ferry (on the right).  It comes and goes about every ten minutes carry passengers across the river.

We have really enjoyed biking and walking around historic Savannah.

Great old cemetery.



Hilton Head Island - Almost

We had a great stay in Charleston, spending most of the time biking around looking at the magnificent homes.  On the second Sunday of each month King Street is turned into a pedestrian only street.  Most of the merchants were open and the restaurants had tables on the sidewalks.  The Jazzercise class was held on the street.

Monday was a late start due to a work related telecon in the morning, so we only made it to South Edisto River (32 37.172N/80 23.779W) where we anchored for the night.  We had planned to make it to a Marina on Hilton Head Island on Tuesday, but it didn't happen.  With three guide books and a sign saying the the Ladies Island Bridge open on the hour and half hour, it only opens on the hour according to the less than communicative bridge tender - 45 minute wait.  Then the wind associated with an approaching frontal passage gave us 20 - 25 knots on the nose and large waves as we crossed Port Royal Sound.  So, we decided to anchored in Skull Creek (32 15.174N/080 44.679W) next to Hilton Head Island.  We will see Hilton Head on the next time through, tomorrow Savannah, GA.

 

New Link

Look to the left.  Right below the "Finding Serenity" button is a new link.  Because we found the http://www.marinetraffic.com/ unreliable, we have added a new link that tracks my cell phone.  We haven't given up entirely on the AIS even though our unit is in for repairs, but look at this as an augmentation.

Thanks Haeden!



American Star

As mentioned in the previous post, restrictions on a bridge opening would have forced us to enter a strange harbor after dark; not wise.  So, we anchored for the nigh 14 miles short of Charleston.  The next morning we found American Star anchored at the mouth of the creek we had tucked into.  No problem, we were able to sneak around her bow and proceed down the ICW.  Soon, however we noticed American Star coming up on our stern, but not fast enough.  The bridge tender decided to delay our opening to wait for her.

Once through the bridge, I noticed she was gaining on us in the narrow channel so I contacted the Captain and ascertained she was doing 7.9 knots while we were doing 7.  We slowed and moved to the far side of the channel and waited for her to pass.

The last part of the ICW before it enters Charleston Harbor has some sharp turns that American Star had to slow down for, forcing us to slow.  But, once in the harbor she turned one way and we headed straight for The Haborage at Ashley Marina where we had reserved a slip.  We had tried to get in the City Marina, but all the space was taken.  As we entered the Ashley River and the narrow reach to the marinas, American Star was on our stern again.  Evidently the Captain had given the passengers a short tour of Charleston Harbor before heading to her reserved space at the City Marina.

At that point I declared it would cost each passenger a beer for me to accommodate them again.  Actually, the Captain was very professional and a gentleman.  There are probably a couple hundred more pictures of Serenity out there somewhere.